Sticky lemon friands

Sticky lemon friands

As the years go by we find not that people want to eat cake less often (thank goodness) but that our customers don’t so often want enormous slices of cake. So we’re always on the lookout for delicious small individual bursts of cakiness. This British/French crossover which we’ve started making in recent weeks is a cracking example. And they’re gluten free if you use the recommended flour.

A friand is a smart little almond cake, similar to a French Financier but usually with fruit in it. They’re all the rage in artisanal cake shops currently. So these delicious little sticky lemon friands are an enticing cross between a smart French Friand and a crowd pleasing classic British lemon drizzle cake. I now have one every time I’m in All Saints which is not good for my entirely theoretical 5 and 2 regime.

You can miss out the lemon drizzle and stir in a few blueberries or raspberries instead, but for me the sticky lemon version takes all the prizes. You can buy the friand trays from Amazon – search under ‘Friand tray masterclass’.

Save the yolks for hollandaise to serve with asparagus or purple sprouting or for Carbonara or to add to quiche mixtures.

For 12 Friands

  • 225g salted butter
  • 275g icing sugar
  • 60g doves gluten free flour
  • 190g ground almonds
  • 6 egg whites
  • 2 lemons, zest only
  • 50g flaked almonds

For the drizzle

  • 2 lemons, juice and zest
  • 2oog caster sugar


  1. Generously butter a 12 hole non-stick friand tin.
  2. Melt butter and set aside to cool
  3. Zest first lot of lemons into a bowl. Sift icing sugar and flour, add the ground almonds and mix everything together.
  4. Lightly beat the egg whites in another bowl until you have a floppy foam.
  5. Tip the egg whites into the dry mix and whisk. Slowly add the butter whisk as you go and until you have a soft batter.
  6. Divide batter into the tin. Sprinkle the flaked almonds over each cake and bake for about 22-25 mins at 170C fan (190C without fan) until a sharp knife inserted comes out clean.
  7. While the friands are still warm prick all over with a thin skewer or cocktail stick right down to the tray.  Mix together to lemon zest, juice and caster sugar, divide equally and spread over each of the friands
  8. Leave in tin to cool.
Blueberry friands at All Saints

A salad for all seasons

When I’m testing out a recipe for the cafés at home, even if I do a half quantity or less, I always seem to produce a ridiculously large quantity of food. So the quantity below makes a really large bowlful – about 3 litres. But actually it was great to have this tub of crunchy flavourful deliciousness to add to, or be the basis of, a series of meals.

First I ate it just as it is. Then for lunch with some crumbled feta. Then slightly warm with some leftover pulled pork. Then hot for supper stir-fried with noodles and the rest of the pulled pork, then hot again for lunch with some thinner noodles and tinned tuna, and finally as a salad to perk up my first baked potato of the year. And all from one delicious bowl of spicey, crunchy, aromatic salad.

Spicey roast cauliflower and carrot with parsley, cabbage and lemon

1 small cauliflower weighing about 500g, in small florets with the stalk finely sliced
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp salt
50ml sunflower oil

500g carrots, peeled and cut into fat short sticks
1 tbs molasses/black treacle
1 tsp chilli flakes (I use chipotle chilli flakes at home)
75ml sunflower oil
2 good cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

½ a good Hispi (sweetheart) cabbage, cored and finely sliced
60g flat parsley (most supermarket bunches are 30g) roughly chopped
2 lemons, juice of
½ tsp fresh thyme leaves

  1. Toast and grind the cumin and coriander seeds
  2. Roast the cauliflower florets and fine chopped stalks in the olive oil, ground coriander & cumin, salt and first lot of sunflower oil for 20 mins at 180C. Stir part way through. Should still retain a little firmness
  3. Roast the carrots in molasses, garlic, chilli flakes and sunflower oil for 25 mins at 180C. Should no longer be crunchy, but not mushy either, just becoming tender.
  4. Chop cabbage and parsley and mix very well with lemon juice, thyme and the two roasted vegetables.

OMG I’ve got a vegan coming for Christmas….

Well actually I don’t, but I’ve heard words to this effect coming from several anxious mouths over the last few weeks. Don’t panic. There is a most fantastic recipe for a three mushroom tartlet with cep sauce in my Bill’s Kitchen cookbook.

When I was doing the Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign for the book one of the ‘rewards’ I offered for backers of the book was a dinner for 20 featuring recipes from the book. My pal Paddy bought one of these dinners and offered his friends a choice of the slow-cooked beef brisket in red wine or the three mushroom tartlet. The split was roughly 50/50 which surprised and delighted me because this was basically a group of omnivores: people choosing a vegan dish because is sounded delicious not because of dietary rules! And they weren’t disappointed.

Three mushroom tartlet with a roast garlic and pine nut base, with a cep sauce,

There’s a few stages to making this recipe but each stage is pretty straightforward.

You can use various wild mushrooms – pieds de mouton are especially good if you can get hold of them. I have specified these three varieties both because they taste really good, and because they are all cultivated and therefore relatively easy to get hold of.

If you want to get ahead of yourself, the tartlet cases and the pine nut puree for the tartlets can be made the day before but the tartlets should not be put together until shortly before they are going to be heated or they will go a bit soggy. In this photo I’ve served the tartlet with the cep sauce, savoy cabbage and roast parsnips. If you’re really hungry you could add some mash, with or without celeriac.

Serves 4

250g wholemeal pastry (see page 67 of Bill’s Kitchen cookbook)

4 cloves garlic
40g pine nuts, lightly toasted
1 branch fresh thyme, stripped
1 tbs lemon juice
35 ml water
¼ tsp salt

2 tbs sunflower oil
175 g field mushrooms, cut into large chunks
175 g oyster mushrooms
175 g shitake mushrooms
Good pinch of salt for each batch of mushrooms

Pre-heat the oven to 160C  (fan).  Roll out the pastry very thinly and line the tartlet tins being careful not to stretch it or it will shrink when cooked. Use either baking beans or an identical tarlet tin to weight the pastry so that it doesn’t puff up during baking. Bake for 15-20 minutes until the pastry is just cooked and barely beginning to brown.

Break the bulb of garlic into cloves but do not peel them. Spread out on to a baking sheet and put in the oven for about 20 minutes until they smell nutty and are a little soft when prodded. Allow them to cool and then peel them.

Put the peeled, baked garlic in a blender with the toasted pine nuts, lemon juice, water, fresh thyme and salt. Whizz until smooth and then taste. You are looking for something quite assertive as it goes on in quite a thin layer. Adjust the seasoning with extra lemon juice or salt as necessary.

Next fry the mushrooms. They need to be fried in small batches on a high heat and you should season each batch as you go. If you try to fry too many at once or over too low a heat they will sweat and go slimy, whereas you want them slightly browned and tender. The pan should remain fairly dry as you fry.

When all the mushrooms are fried you are ready to assemble the tarts. Divide the pine nut mixture between the blind-baked tartlet cases and spread it evenly over the base. Arrange the fried mushrooms on top, starting with the field mushrooms, then the oyster mushrooms and lastly the shitake mushrooms arranged bottom up.

Before serving, pre-heat the oven to 160C (fan) and place the tartlets on a baking sheet in the oven for about 15 minutes until piping hot.

Cep sauce

This sauce can happily be made a day or two in advance. Arrowroot is a useful alternative sauce thickener to be aware of as it’s gluten free.

25 g dried ceps
200 ml hot water, for soaking the ceps

1 dsp sunflower oil
1 small onion, finely diced
1 clove garlic, crushed
¼ small chilli, finely chopped, without the seeds
¼ tsp salt
100 g field mushrooms, finely diced
125 ml red wine
2 tsp soy sauce
½ tsp sugar

1 tsp arrowroot
Cold water to mix

Soak the ceps in the hot water for about 30 minutes.

In a saucepan, sweat the onion, garlic and chilli and in the sunflower oil until soft. Add the diced field mushrooms and keep cooking until the mushrooms are soft and have given off their juice. Add the wine and soy sauce. With a slotted spoon, take the ceps from their liquid and add them. Strain the liquid from the ceps through a fine sieve and add that also. Bring everything to the boil and simmer for about five minutes with the lid off, allowing the sauce to reduce a little.

Mix the arrowroot with a few drops of cold water and add half of it to the sauce. Bring back to the boil, stirring well. If you would like the sauce to be thicker, repeat the process with the rest of the arrowroot mixture, otherwise leave it as it is. Check the seasoning.

Huevos not quite rancheros

Autumn is the season of mists, mellow fruitfulness and really substantial breakfasts.

These delicious spicey eggs feature in the ‘holiday breakfasts’ chapter of my Bill’s Kitchen cookbook. We’ve just started serving them at Café @ All saints with the addition of some roast peppers – and they’re making people very happy!

It’s an ultra simple dish to make – which is a good thing at breakfast time when your concentration and energy levels may be modest. It’s cooked on the hob and then the poaching of the egg finished in the oven. This works fine if you’ve got an Aga that is on anyway. If you haven’t and you feel that it’s a waste to switch your oven on just to poach an egg, then you can either finish it under the grill (which is what we do at All Saints) or put a lid on the pan and finish the poaching on the hob – it doesn’t seem to turn out quite as pretty that way but it tastes just the same.

The quality of the toast (such as the toasted ciabatta pictured here) makes all the difference.

serves 1

1 tbs olive oil
1 cooking chorizo, halved lengthways and then cut 2cm
1 large tomato, diced 2cm
(Optional – a few slices of roast pepper)

1 big egg

2 good slices very good toast – e.g. white sourdough, Spianata, or ciabatta

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 160C (fan).
  2. Use a very small frying pan that can go into the oven or, ideally, a small cast iron pan like the one pictured. Fry the chunks of chorizo in the olive oil for about 5 minutes until just cooked. Add the chopped tomato and fry for three or four minutes until the tomato is going mushy. (Add the roast peppers if using and stir well) Make a dip in the middle of the pan and crack the egg into the middle of this dip. Put in the oven for about 5 minutes until the white is just set and the yolk is still runny. Serve on a warmed plate with very good toast on the side.


Story of a leg (of lamb)

Roast aubergine ratatouille to go with the lamb

I’m very keen on leftovers – as you’ll know if you’ve read my new(ish) cookbook, Bill’s Kitchen. And especially when cooking a prime joint like a leg of lamb, I’m keen that none of it should go to waste. So here is the story of our most recent leg of lamb.

Last year we had a joint venture with our neighbours, Jo and Graham, to have four sheep on our paddock. The deal was that they looked after the lambs/sheep, we (being un-skilled and lazy townies) provided the land and we split the costs both of buying the young lambs and of slaughter and butchery. So our paddock was kept naturally mowed through the summer and late last autumn the butchered lamb was delivered and we filled our freezer with the delicious bounty.

In celebration of Easter and having a full family at home I decided it was a good moment to roast a leg. Since we had friends coming to join us one of whom was a vegetarian I served the lamb with roast aubergine ratatouille and then offered fried halloumi with the ratatouille as an alternative to the lamb. Inevitably the meat-eaters wanted the halloumi as well as the lamb but we made sure that the veggie got priority.

So here how’s every morsel of the leg was eaten

Day 1:
The main event: eight people had roast lamb with red wine jus, ratatouille, sliced rosemary potatoes, fried halloumi

Day 2:
At least one person simply had some re-heated leftovers

Day 3:
I made lamb, tamarind and lentil soup for at least 8 people which was consumed over the next couple of days

Day 4:
With the last of the best bits of lamb I made a noodle stir fry for four of us

All in all that’s 20 people served from one leg of lamb which I think is pretty good going. I’ll leave the recipe for the stir-fry to your imagination and the recipe for the ratatouille is on page 109 of Bill’s Kitchen. But here’s a summary of what I did for the roast, the potatoes and the soup – and they were  all very delicious.

Anchovy and garlic roast lamb with red wine jus

1 large leg of lamb

2 big sprigs rosemary, stripped and finely chopped
10 anchovies in oil, finely chopped
5 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbs olive oil

500ml red wine

  1. Make a paste of the anchovies, garlic, rosemary and oil. Then with the sharp end of a knife I made about 15 holes in the lamb about 2cm across and 4cm deep and stuffed the paste into them.
  2. Roast the lamb at 220C (I used the top right oven of our Aga) for 20 minutes. Add the wine to the bottom of the roasting tin and return to the hot oven. After 5 minutes turn the oven down to 170C (I used the bottom right oven of our Aga) and continue roasting for 45 minutes.
  3. Turn the oven right down to 110C (I used the top left oven of our Aga) and let it continue to cook very slowly for a further hour. This resulted in lamb that was just a little pink in the middle and extremely juicy. Pour the red wine jus onto the sliced lamb and rosemary potatoes.


Sliced rosemary potatoes

2.5kg maris piper potatoes, sliced finely
75ml olive oil
2 tsp salt
2 tbs finely-chopped fresh rosemary leaves – about one very big sprig, with the woody bits removed

Toss everything together and then spread out on the largest baking tray that will fit into your oven. Cook at 170C for about 90 minutes turning them every so often so the edge bits don’t burn. Turn the oven temperature up to 220C for the final 10 minutes to brown the top.

Lamb, tamarind and lentil soup

1 large onion, roughly chopped
700g carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
left over chicken fat and juices (from a previous meal) – or use sunflower oil1 tsp chilli paste
2 tsp turmeric
2 tsp salt

150g red lentils
250g potatoes, diced small
700ml water

200ml leftover red wine jus
2 tbs tomato paste
1 tbs tamarind paste

350g  less perfect bits of leftover roast lamb, diced very small

  1. In a large lidded pan sweat the onion and carrot in the fat, chilli paste, turmeric and salt for about 30-40 minutes until they are very soft.
  2. Add the lentils, potatoes and water and bring to the boil, then simmer with the lid on for about 30 minutes until the lentils and potatoes are very soft. Add the jus, tomato paste and tamarind and whizz thoroughly with a hand-held blender.
  3. Add the diced lamb and season the soup to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Re-heat so the leftover lamb is piping hot and serve.

Hot cross buns

Freshly baked buns

An unexpected pleasure this year has been participating in the panel that’s judging the Guild of Food Writers “Cookery Writer of the Year” award. This particular award is not for cookbooks (my own book is entered for the cookbook award so I couldn’t really be on that panel!) but for articles published in newspapers and magazines during 2017. The five of us judges have each been given 5 recipe articles from 20 different writers, with a view to creating initially a shortlist and then a winner. It was a marathon of reading and thinking about 100 articles (perhaps 400 recipes in total) and their introductions. The breadth of people’s food imagination is remarkable, and I’m excited to have discovered several writers that I wasn’t familiar with – although probably should have been.

Since I’ve only just submitted my shortlist, and the awards ceremony is not until June, I can’t say anything about individual entrants. But the whole process has set off a wave of new recipe cooking at home – including delving again into some books that have been resting on our shelves. On Monday Sarah made a delicious Nigel Slater combination from his Kitchen Diaries vol 3– duck legs slow cooked with port and prunes, plus red cabbage with bacon. I was doubtful about the red cabbage and bacon but wrongly so. The salty cabbaginess made a memorably delicious plateful when eaten alongside the duck and prunes.

Meanwhile, with Easter (and therefore Good Friday) fast approaching, my eye had been caught by a hot cross bun recipe in one of the articles submitted for the GFW awards. I made a first version last week and have tinkered with it in a minor way this week to create the buns pictured here. I think they’re lovely – the diced apple and the spiced glaze giving the deliciously soft dough an extra lift. Taking these buns out of the oven I had to suppress once again my dream of having a little bakery. ’Remember the ridiculously early mornings, Bill, as well as the tricky economics’ I tell myself for the umpteenth time.

‘Mixed spice’ is classic British pudding spice mix which will vary from brand to brand but which generally features cinnamon, cloves, allspice, ginger and nutmeg. I find the combination strangely alluring.

makes 16 buns

This dough is more easily kneaded in a mixer than by hand as it’s rather slack and sticky. As it’s an enriched dough it takes a lot longer to rise than normal bread dough.

340ml milk
50g butter

500g strong white flour
75g caster sugar
7g pckt yeast
5g salt

1 egg, lightly beaten

75g sultanas/raisins
50g mixed peel
1 eating apple, diced 0.5cm
1 tsp mixed spice

For the cross:

75g plain flour and enough water to make a paste like toothpaste

For the glaze

50g sugar
50g water
½ tsp mixed spice

  1. Heat milk to steaming. Add butter and allow to melt. Allow mixture to cool.
  2. In a large mixing bowl (ideally of a Kenwood Chef type mixer) add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients. Mix together roughly, then mix in the egg and knead for a couple of minutes (or 5 minutes if kneading by hand).
  3. Mix in the raisins, peel, apple and mixed spice and knead again until everything is evenly distributed. Cover with clingfilm and leave for 1½ to 3 hours (depending on the room and dough temperatures) until at least doubled in size.
  4. Line 2 baking sheets each measuring about 26cm x 32cm (or 1 larger one if you’ve got a big oven) with baking parchment. Divide the dough into 16 and arrange evenly on the baking sheets. Don’t attempt to shape the buns as they’re too sticky for this and, in any event, they settle to a nice shape as they rise.
  5. Allow to rise in a warm place until really puffy (1-3 hours depending on room temperature). Pipe on the crosses with the flour paste using a piping bag. If you make a mess (as I usually do) that goes to show that these are home-made buns and none of that shop-bought nonsense.
  6. Bake at 180C (fan) for 20-25 minutes until slightly browned and hollow-sounding when tapped underneath. Remove from the oven.
  7. Put the glaze ingredients in a small pan and heat to boiling point, stirring sufficiently to mix the sugar in to the water. Brush the glaze generously on to the buns whilst they’re still warm.

Scribbles and spillages

Sourdough notes on Bill’s wholemeal loaf

If I’m honest one of the reasons I wrote Bill’s Kitchen is to have all my favourite recipes in one place for my own personal use. I would be bonkers if that were my only reason for writing it but it was definitely a regularly hovering thought. Even though I’ve written all the recipes and cooked most of them many, many times I still often like to refer to quantities and directions when I’m cooking. I’m just not good at retaining numbers and timings in my head. But that’s not to say that I treat my recipes (or anyone else’s recipes come to that) as commandments set in stone. Almost as soon as I’d laid my hands on my very own copy of Bill’s Kitchen I was tinkering and trying more variations, alternatives and shortcuts for busy days.

Scribbles and dribbles on brownie recipe from my first book

In my own copies of my two original cookbooks (Food From The Place Below and Feasts From The Place Below) there is layer upon layer of notes, scribbles and spillages. The pages on bread, marmalade and brownies are especially thickly encrusted.

And I’ve already made a few notes in the new book. This doesn’t mean that there are mistakes in the book – amazingly I have yet to discover any bog-ups although there are surely one or two lurking there somewhere. But food journeys never end and I’m already finding tweaks and alternatives that I don’t want to forget. So here’s a few extra snippets that I’ve added or am planning to scribble on to my copy of Bill’s Kitchen:

Bill’s wholemeal loaf (p.23)

Over the last year or so I’ve become more and more addicted to sourdough bread. In Bill’s Kitchen I’ve given a mixture of sourdough and conventional recipes. But the wholemeal bread that I’m currently cooking most often at home is an entirely sourdough version of the Bill’s bread recipe on page…..The photo at the top is of my alternative sourdough quantities/instructions

Spianata (p.31)

This Italian flatbread (page………in the book) continues to be another baked addiction for me and my family. And in February I’m taking Spianata to the Bloxham Festival where I’m providing lunch for 60 all cooked from the book before giving a talk. I now nearly always make this with 100% sourdough starter and I also plan to experiment with a thinner version than that given in the book so you get a higher proportion of crust to insides. That’s the great thing about making stuff yourself – sometimes you may want it thinner and sometimes thicker. My guess is that they’ll both be delicious and appropriate for different situations. Cooking times will clearly need adjusting.

Lownz’s lamb tagine (p.167)

We had four sheep on our paddock this year (looked after by our neighbours Graham and Jo) and two of them are now in our freezer. We had substantial leftovers from the first very delicious leg that I cooked and the next day I decided to make a speedy version of Lownz’s lamb tagine. I’d been sent a couple of tubs of Ajika – a spice paste from Abkazhia which some friends of friends are producing (see for more information) – and I thought that could save me some spice-finding and garlic crushing. So I substituted a teaspoon of the hot version of Ajika for the first few spice ingredients and then added some ready-mixed ras-el-hanout. It was delicious – spicier than the original version in the book and certainly different, but very good indeed. And the pre-cooked diced leg also worked surprisingly well in place of slow-cooked diced shoulder.

Sarah’s pasta with smoked salmon (p.143)

I’ve also tried adding a teaspoon of Ajika (see above) to this recipe at the same time as the salmon/cream etc. I love warm spices with oily fish and they work well here.

Salted caramel brownies (p.203)

I frequently want to cook a double quantity of brownies at home and I tend to do this in one big commercial baking tray rather than 2 domestic-sized tins. I’ve been reminded by doing this that cooking in a much bigger tray means decreasing the temperature by 10C and increasing the baking time by 10 minutes – otherwise you get brownies which are cooked on the edge but still not quite set in the middle.

That’s just a few examples of how Bill’s Kitchen, like any good cookbook, is a stage in a journey not a straightforward encyclopedia of recipes.

So for a new year’s resolution let’s all keep cooking and experimenting and making life always a little bit tastier. It’s been an absolute delight to have so many of you telling me how much you’re enjoying reading and cooking from the book – thank you for getting in touch. And don’t forget to tell your friends to buy their own copy, either from one of the cafes or at

Happy Cooking and Happy 2018 to all of you!

In pursuit of rich and delicious coffee

Our new ‘Bicerin’ with a salted caramel brownie

In my new book (still on a boat – annoyingly, the 3000 copies left Hong Kong a week late) I’m pictured wearing an apron saying ‘grumpy old man’. So in my official grumpy capacity I’ll say this: It really annoys me when people complain about trends in the economy ‘which lead to a world of frothy coffee jobs’. The implication is that making and serving coffee is a menial task of little value requiring little or no skill and leading nowhere.

As in many areas of life the cultural values of Europe are a step ahead of us. In Italy the role of barista is valued and respected. It makes my day to come across somewhere making really good coffee. At my cafés it’s something we never stop working on. Just recently we’ve introduced a new coffee called a ‘Bicerin’ (pronounced ‘bee-chair-een’) which Dean, the manager at All Saints, came across on holiday at a famous café of the same name in Turin. We make it with Green and Black’s chocolate, a double shot of espresso, chocolate sprinkles and a small amount of richly textured milk. As you can see from the picture at the top it looks lovely – and it tastes even better.

But making consistently rich and delicious coffee is not primarily about the recipe.

Firstly it’s about the choice of coffee beans. We use, and have used for many years, Illy espresso. As you’ll know if you’ve ever bought Illy in a supermarket it’s one of the most expensive coffees available. We pay at least 60% more for our beans that the main coffee chains and most of that difference is to do with the quality of the coffee rather than the superior buying power of the chains. The businessman in me is always looking for a fantastic little local company roasting and blending perfect espresso at lower prices. But it seems that you get what you pay for. We’ve done many blind tastings over the years and Illy always comes out top.

Secondly and most simply it’s about the espresso machine. You have to use a good quality machine that is properly maintained and cleaned so that it’s using the correct quantity, temperature and pressure of water for every cup. Equally the steam wand for heating/texturing milk must be constantly (i.e. every time you use it) kept clean and clear.

Thirdly – and most challengingly – it’s about the skill and consistency of the barista (person making Italian-style espresso coffee). So what does a barista have to do to ensure you get a perfect coffee every time? Here’s my (not exhaustive) list of the top ten things your barista needs to do to make sure you get a consistently excellent cappuccino or flat white:

  1. Always use a hot cup and make sure that the portafilter (the bit you put the freshly ground coffee in) is always hot. Espresso is brewed using water a few degrees below boiling (and milk quite a bit cooler than that) so everything possible has to be done to ensure that the drink gets to the customer sufficiently hot without scalding the coffee or over-cooking the milk.
  2. Make sure that the coffee is ground to the correct fine-ness. The grinding mechanism of a coffee grinder is being constantly worn away by the very process of grinding so the machine needs regular adjustment to ensure that a consistent and correct fine-ness of ground coffee is achieved.
  3. Make sure that the coffee is ‘tamped’ (pressed down with a ‘tamper’) sufficiently firmly – but not too firmly. If points 2 and 3 are correctly followed then the espresso will pour from the spout into the cup in a shape that is known as a ‘rat’s tail’. If it comes out too quickly the grind is too coarse or the coffee insufficiently tamped. If it drips out too slowly then the grind is too fine and/or the coffee has been excessively tamped.
  4. Espresso with a nice ‘crema’

    A well made espresso will always have a fine nutty-brown froth on top known as the crema. In our in-house barista training manual we have a saying: ‘No crema, no serva.’ If there’s no crema on the espresso it’s almost always a sign that there’s something wrong with the way it was made. Confusingly the reverse is not the case. You can have very nasty espresso that has a beautiful crema. It’s much easier to get a good crema from cheap and relatively flavourless Robusta beans than from the finer Arabica beans. Needless to say Illy coffee is 100% Arabica.

  5. Use full fat milk. Of course if customers want us to use other milks (skimmed, semi, soya etc) we’re happy to do that. But in my view the finest milky coffees are made with full-fat milk. Something to do the fat in the milk complementing the acidity of the coffee.
  6. Always start texturing the milk using cold fresh milk, as opposed to constantly re-heating old milk.
  7. Heat with the wand at the correct angle and height in the jug thus creating a whirlpool within the jug that will encourage the creation of fine bubbles incorporating the right amount of air. You’re looking for a dense creamy foam at about 65C.
  8. Tap the jug firmly and then ‘polish’ the milk using a vigorous swirling motion. You will see the milk become shiny as you do this.
  9. For cappuccino and macchiato pour rapidly from the top of the jug – imagine that it’s a jug of water with ice in and you’re trying to pour out the ice.
  10. For latte, flat white, cortado and our new Bicerin, pour slowly from the bottom of the jug getting an even denser more ‘liquid’ bit of the milk.There you have it – couldn’t be simpler! And that’s without starting on latte art. I’ve been doing it for twenty years and I still struggle to make perfect coffees every time – and that’s why I’m always delighted to be served a great coffee, especially when it’s in one of my own cafes!

If you’re interested in making espresso at home I was sent a link to a thorough-looking (US-based) review of espresso machines  I’ve never used domestic-style espresso machine and I don’t think I’ve ever had a really well-made coffee with textured milk made on a domestic espresso machine but I’d be delighted to be shown the error or my limited experience!





Aligot, pulled brisket and our first ever festival pop-up

Spianata with pulled brisket and coleslaw

We’ve just come back from a lovely couple of weeks in France. Our usual summer holiday of filling a big house with friends and family for eating, drinking, volleyball and lounging. There were briefly 18 of us when two of Jonny’s friends who were cycling from the Pyrenees through France decided that a few nights of home comforts would refresh them for the last leg of their journey. The first night the cyclists were with us was the kids (teenagers now) turn to cook and they came up trumps: Aligot (a local speciality: cheesey mash made with a young Tomme cheese which you can buy ready-grated and seasoned in the market) with a fragrant fennel and sausage casserole followed by roast peaches with a kind of sweetened yeasted cake a bit like Pannetone (also bought in the local market) and ice cream. Can’t you just taste it all?

Back home my mind has rapidly turned to our first ever festival pop-up. The splendid guys at A Rule of Tum started the Hereford Indie Food festival last year and it was an instant success. This year it’s back, bigger and better for the three days of the August Bank Holiday weekend. As well as a producers’ market and street food stalls (of which our Bill’s Kitchen is one) the Indie Food crew have teamed up with the Hay Festival to offer a series of food-related talks. Sunday morning sees Stephen Terry (from the excellent Hardwick pub near Abergavenny) at 10am followed by me at 11am talking about some recipes from my new book. Book your tickets for the talks at

But the street food stalls are at the heart of what the Indie Food festival is all about. Our stall, ‘Bill’s Kitchen’, will be focusing on sourdough spianata sandwiches. For the fillings customers will choose between grilled halloumi with roast vegetables in a tomato and basil dressing or our stunning slow-cooked pulled Herefordshire brisket.

You’ll be able to find the spianata recipe in my new book, also called Bill’s Kitchen (published on 2nd October but available now to pre-order at ) but here’s the recipe for the utterly mouthwaterig slow-cooked pulled brisket.

Pulled brisket in its cooking pot

I think it makes sense to make quite a big quantity of this and then freeze what you don’t want straight away. If you’re not used to cooking things overnight then have courage and give it a go – it’s bizarre but rather wonderful to wake up to the aroma of slowly cooking spiced beef.

Serves 15-20 depending on your appetite

2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted and whizzed in a spice grinder or bashed with a pestle and mortar
2 tsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
20g salt
2 tsp hot smoked paprika

2kg beef brisket boned but not rolled (if you can only get a rolled one then just cut the string and unroll it so that it’s easier to rub the spices into it)

500ml dry cider
75g molasses or black treacle

Pre-heat the oven to 200C (fan).

Mix together the ground fennel seeds, rosemary, garlic, salt and hot smoked paprika. Rub the spice spice mix over all the meat’s surfaces and try to get it into any nooks and crannies. Put into a heavy casserole dish with a well-fitting lid.

Roast for 30 minutes with the lid off. Mix the cider and molasses together and pour over the meat. Put the lid on and turn the oven down to 120c (fan) and cook overnight (or for 10-12 hours) until a lot of fat has run out and the meat is soft enough to be pulled with a fork.

Pour off all the liquid (including any melted fat); put in a gravy separator and discard the fat. Discard any remaining solid fat and any grissly bits (there shouldn’t be much of this) and pull the beef with a couple of forks. Put the pulled meat and the liquid together and mix well. You can either serve it straight away or keep in the fridge and fry it up in a pan or warm in the oven when you want it. It’s resilient stuff.





Book printing and quinoa

Michael (the designer) transferred Bill’s Kitchen (my new book in case you haven’t spotted this) by some internet-means to Hong Kong on Monday. So Ming and her printers are now busy printing. Dominic is busy contacting lots of potential reviewers and I’m reverting to my default life position of thinking about food. As well as preparing for our first ever food festival stall – a three day slot at Hereford’s second Indie Food festival where we’ll be selling sourdough spianata stuffed with either pulled Herefordshire brisket with coleslaw or grilled halloumi with baba ganoush and roast veg – I’ve been thinking about quinoa.

Quinoa and fresh herb salad with added red and yellow peppers

I’m always a bit suspicious of wonder ingredients that become ultra-fashionable so I’m generally a late-adopter. In fact one of our chefs (Pam Shookman, a healthy-living Canadian) first used Quinoa in our salads at The Place Below in the mid-1990s so at that point we were mildly avant-garde. However, we’ve been a long time giving it a regular place on our menu. A few weeks ago at All Saints (and coming soon to Michaelhouse) we started serving this deliciously perky variant on tabbouleh as one of our daily salad bowls and it’s going down a treat with the punters (as we affectionately call you lot). If I were making it at home I’d probably add half a clove of crushed garlic, but lunchtime office workers can be reluctant to breathe garlic fumes over their colleagues so we tend to be cautious in our raw garlic use at the cafes.

The one thing that we’ve learnt over the last few weeks is that it’s very easy to overcook quinoa. And claggy overcooked quinoa is like eating porridge in salad format – not attractive. So set a timer, drain thoroughly and then spread the drained quinoa out on a big tray to get rid of the steam as quickly as possible.

Lowri, our head chef in Hereford, suggested the diced raw courgettes. I was doubtful, but actually they’re great so long as you use really firm fresh courgettes and dice them very small. It’s a pretty flexible recipe especially in relation to which veg and which toasted seeds you use.

Small supermarket bunches of fresh herbs normally weigh about 30g, so you need three bunches of flat parsley of that size for this salad. Don’t skimp on the herbs.

Quinoa and fresh herb salad

serves 6-8 as part of a mixed salad plate

1 x 400g tin chickpeas, drained
200g quinoa
300g courgettes, diced ½ cm
150g fine beans, cut in 3
90g flat parsley, roughly chopped
30g mint, leaves stripped from the stalks and roughly chopped
1 tbs capers, drained and roughly chopped
75ml olive oil
2 lemons, juice of
1 tsp salt

25g pumpkin seeds
½ tsp salt

  1. Rinse quinoa very thoroughly to remove bitterness. Boil in plenty of water for 15 minutes, then drain thoroughly and spread out so that it cools and doesn’t go too stodgy
  2. Bring another pan of water to the boil and boil the green beans for about 3 minutes until just tender. Drain.
  3. Remove only the woodiest stalks from the herbs. You can use most of the parsley stalks apart from the fattest. The mint stalks tend to be all woody so discard them. Then roughly chop the herbs.
  4. Mix everything except the pumpkin seeds and their salt very well together.
  5. Toast the pumpkin seeds with the salt either in a dry pan on the hob or in a fairly hot oven and sprinkle over the top of the serving bowl.